Godin Radiator The trouble with mirror front guitars such as this Godin Radiator is that you can't sell it discreetly on eBay since when you take its picture your face shows! Still it has this ultra classic elegance of Godin 's products, a mix of Telecaster and Les Paul that still has its personality; I'm amazed by designers who can do that!
Greetings.I had been wanting a new A6 Ultra Baritone for some time, and finally took the plunge.its a gorgeous guitar.but the first several frets were buzzing, so had to adjust the truss.and in my anxious fervour, I brought it up on stage for a few songs.it sounded really dark and muddy, undefined, no matter the eq settings.hoping new strings will sort that out.my biggest concern is that the output jack crackles.I tried several high quality cords with the same result. Hoping to cure that this weekend. What might cause a new jack to crackle, and what do I need to do in order to remedy it?
Thanks, in advance. I have some questions about a used Multiac I recently aquired.First off, I bought this as a test guitar to see how I liked Godins, have been considering a new Godin electric and/or acoustic electric.I do like the guitar, it has problems though. It was a test, buying it used, to see if I wanted other Godin products.I have decided I do not, because I can find little tech support for their instruments, either in the literature that came with the guitar or on line. It seems they do not have a phone number to call for tech support.I don't buy things from companies that are hard to contact, and the first thing I do with any major purchase is to find and call their tech number to see if they do indeed have real support.Anyone knowledgeable about these problems please help me out./ 1) the Saddles are apparently a bit oxidized or otherwise corroded, I had a ground problem or some other contact problem with one and solved the problem by putting pressure on the saddle. Which leads to the first question:Are the saddles hard wired to the piezo or d they rest on it?
If so is it safe to remove them and clean them as well as clean the piezo and saddle rest with some Doxit and a Qtip?2) The 1/4' output only works when the synth is plugged in. The synth works whether there is a battery in the guitar or not, and the output to an amp works with the synth active.It does not work with the synth not on.I suspect that the 9v batter is merely to drive the preamp when the synth is not plugged in.
I suspect the jack, which apparently disconnects the signal path for the 9v when unplugged, has a problem. I have cleaned it with deoxit and cleaned inside the jack with steel wool, which so far has not fixed the problem.I suspect there is either a bad connection between the 9v and the jack ( unlikely) or that the circuit board where the jack is has a fault, or the jack itself is not passing the battery signal. The only other consideration is that the 9v is not making it to the preamp or the preamp has a bad solder joint or connection.Anyone who can shed some light on this would be greatly [email protected]. I decided, since I was getting nowhere trying to get tech help, to take the leap and try to remove the saddle of the A string on mine.It was a bizarre problem, like a ground problem.
The A string had sound, but it was far less than the other strings.The guitar had an electrical buzz, fluorescent light type. When I would touch just the A string that hum would intensify greatly.I took a small screwdriver and carefully wedged it between the 5&6 saddles and barely put pressure.
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That solved the problem, which told me the problem was a contact in the saddle.So, the next day I decided ( partly because I wanted to make sure it was a solid fix, partly because I can't not tinker with stuff to figure it out) to try to remove the saddle and see what it was made of.I took a small pair of needle pliers and grasped the saddle to slowly lift it up and to my surprise the top of the saddle lifted off. Beneath it was the rest of the saddle, which had a small wire sticking up that was bent in a sharp curve, apparently so that when the top of the saddle was placed back it makes contact with that wire.I cleaned it with Doxit, and put it back in place.At the same time I realized that between the top of the saddle ( which I had assumed to be a solid piece) and the body of the saddle there is a gap. I sprayed Doxit in each of those gaps on the rest of the strings.So, my conclusion ( which may be faulty) is that, being as the saddles appear to be made of some kind of light brass, I had corrosion either on the bottom of the top of the saddle or on the wire itself. Or perhaps the top of the saddle was corroded where it contacts with the saddle body.My point being, if you are not feint hearted you might try as I did and spray some Doxit ( that is the only de-oxidizing cleaner I will use, I avoid tuner cleaners) in that gap and see if you get contact again.In the case of the extreme, and again, not to shy about experimenting, you might lift the top of that saddle off and inspect what is beneath.The top of the saddle is very small, it appears as if the sides of the saddle body protrude up and the saddle rests between them, held by pressure from them. I wish I had taken a picture of it when I had it apart that I could send you.Again, I am kind of balsy about working on stuff and have the attitude that if I screw it up and need to take it to someone else and shell out $ to fix it, big deal, it already doesn't work and that is the only other option anyway, so I got nothing to lose by nosing around in stuff. Aside from, that is how I educate myself.So far that works, local musicians often come to me rather than go to a shop to get stuff fixed. And I haven't had to pay a tech for decades, I always seem to figure it out myself.It also may be of some note that some of my education is in electronics so I am not doing what I do without already having significant knowledge.
I recently purchased a 2017 xtSA and while restringing and tuning the guitar for the 1st time, the bottom edge of the bridge is rotatating/lifting above the plane as I continue to tension/tune the strings (Elixer 0.10' - 0.047' extra lights). Looking from the rear/back of the guitar, this bridge-plate appears to be anchored down in place via multiple springs.This is my 1st solid-body electric guitar and I feel like I'm missing something obvious. I'm sure the bridge plate was rotated/lifted like that when I received it or I would've noticed -Thanks in advance!
Hi,I have played guitar for many years (well over 40) but I am totally new to all the high-tech stuff, and solid body electric guitars in general. I just got a brand new Godin LGX-SA and I am ashamed to admit that I have a few very basic questions about it:1) what are the correct setting to connect it to my Roland GR-55?2) what small, home, amp would be ideal to fully use all the sound possibilities of the LGX-SA3) the guitar comes with two humbucker pick-ups (SH II jazz in the neck and a Custom III in the bridge) but the 5 way switch selector offers 5 positions: how can that be?! Or are positions A and D 'half a humbucker' positions?!4) Is it normal that the volume of the bridge transducers (piezos) is much stronger than the volume of the humbuckers (when both volumes are set to max)5) finally, while I like the guitar, I am less than awed by the sustain. What is your experience?Thanks a lot for answering these primitive questions!Alex. I just purchased this Godin guitar at a local music store.
I can't find much information about it. Looking for some help. I found one in a different color and came up with the EZ5520. The only guitar I found with the exact Headstock. LGX3 is After the word Godin in Small Letters on the headstock. Unlike others that are at the top. I was told it was a 2000.
Also that they didn't make many of them. Mine is a Blue with a flame maple top. The one on Gruhn Guitars is the same guitar but a different color. I found so little about the Godin serial numbers online. I contacted Godin via email.I have a 2004 Montreal 2 voice. The discontinued model that's Mahogany semi-hollow.Seem the first 2 numbers designate year made.My serial number is: 04416341.I'm assuming the first 2 digits are year. Yep, assuming.
Easy to contact on Godin site. Quick reply with the info I wanted, which was.Year made.FWIWI believe Godin guitars are exceptional. This Montreal has a bolt on neck. Not your usual type.The 'ergonomic' neck makes me a better player.
I'm fine with that. I solid Mahogany, carved guitar that sold for around $ 1500 new.
The LR Baggs transducer bridge is wonderful. Graphtech nut.I've had other models, and they too were nicer than the big names of same cost.My subjective 2 cents regarding Godin Guitars. Hope this info may be of help. Nice to find a site for these fine Guitars.
I have a black Godin electric/acoustic guitar which I am not sure what model it is. I am not the original owner. The original owner told me he it cost him about $1,000. I bought for half but it was physically in bad shape. It haves steel strings on it. Can't put nylons on it because the slot on the nut are too thin for nylon. There is no serial number on the whole guitar.
It does not have the Godin signature below the volume and equalizer control. There is a piece of clear label that reads 'MULT XLR'. The brand on top of the neck looks authentic of Godin.
The plate that holds the body and the neck behind haves the Godin signature. Haves 2 plain plates with four screws each. One has the electronic boards where you set the 9 volt battery. The other haves nothing just cables. The mic are individually set on the bridge for each string. Just like regular Godin guitar. It have 2 output plugs: one is a regular 1/4 phono plug and a 13 pin connector to connect a Roland guitar synth.
The neck is mahogany, it haves the dots set like the Godin guitars. It is the description what could be a Multiac but with steel strings. Can't locate the original owner for more info. Have search on the internet if I could one like it. Seems to be the only model.
I have heard that there have been some models that were discontinued, but the ones that I found are not the ones. Want to know what exactly I have. Is there anybody who can help me out with Godin A6 Ultra preamp wiring.
Story is that I bought guitar without preamp. Old owner said that it was broken and he droped it away. Then he tried to use passive piezo and he cut boath plugin sockets. I bought new preamp from ebay but I have no idea were all those cables fit. I hope ther is no problem to find those 5pin plugin sockets but its impossible to find schematics. I don't want to blow up my preamp.Big big thanks if anybody can help.Sorry abot my bad english!
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